Navigating Work and Life as a Western Woman in Saudi Arabia

Life as a Western woman in Saudi Arabia can be a complex blend of cultural experiences, both challenging and rewarding. Drawing from personal experiences working as a kindergarten teacher, I explore what it's like to navigate the customs, restrictions, and social dynamics in this unique environment.

Limitations and Freedom

As a foreigner, I encountered a myriad of cultural norms that were both binding and liberating. I found the work and life experience in Saudi Arabia to be very limited and oppressive, yet there were moments that I will always treasure. My time working as a kindergarten teacher taught me a great deal about the diverse social norms and expectations in this society.

One aspect that stood out was the requirement to wear an abaya. Initially, I did not enjoy this experience, and it was a constant battle to keep it properly positioned. In the winter, the abaya was still unattractive, but I appreciated wearing it more voluntarily. It allowed me to blend in seamlessly without needing to make a fashion statement.

Cultural Expectations and Challenges

The hijab was another cultural expectation that was challenging to comply with. My attempts to wear it always failed due to its slippery nature, making it a tight and uncomfortable experience. In wintertime, when the weather was warmer, I wore the hijab more often, embracing the voluntary aspect more readily. However, not all areas of Saudi Arabia were as liberal. The muttawa, or religious police, scrutinized those who did not adhere to the strict dress code, and sometimes we faced questioning and interrogation.

Living Conditions and Work Dynamics

Living and working conditions varied significantly depending on your position. For instance, the ladies who cleaned my school faced a tough situation. They shared a one-bedroom apartment with seven other women and had limited opportunities for freedom of movement. Their transportation was limited to occasional trips to the store, and they were not allowed to explore the city or interact with men, leading to a deeply isolationist existence.

My coworkers, who were in better situations, often harbored resentment toward Americans, citing the higher pay for being American as a primary reason. This environment was tense, with frequent drama and conflicts. Being on the company provided compound had its issues too—small, dirty rooms and a guarded, often rude and racist fence.

Risk and Security

Security was another significant concern. A coworker once faced a frightening incident while jogging in her abaya, where a man followed her to the apartment. She managed to push him away and lock her door. Additionally, the transportation system was frustrating, and it was common for drivers to be impolite and disrespectful. Latecomers had to deal with drivers who might yell and curse at them, making the commute a source of stress and tension.

The cultural norms often led to clashes of personality among coworkers. It was not uncommon to encounter situations where shop owners did not prioritize customer service, leading to long waits and further delays. This sense of control seemed to be taken away from me in a society where women are typically at the mercy of their male counterparts.

Amidst the Challenges

Despite all these challenges, there were moments of joy and adventure. Exploring the sights and attending local festivals like Madein Saleh or the Jnindreyah festival provided me with unforgettable experiences. I also enjoyed desert camping trips where I engaged in activities like tea-drinking, four-wheeling, and riding in vehicles.

A particularly memorable day took place when I was sent to the desert to ride in a convertible Mustang, driven by a young Saudi man who raced against other cars on the highway in Riyadh. The combination of speed, alcohol, and mad antics created an experience that was both hilarious and terrifying but ultimately an incredible memory.

Being a Western woman in Saudi Arabia offered a unique lens through which to view personal and professional life. While the cultural norms and restrictions were daunting, the experiences of adventure and connection made the journey worthwhile.